A handbook to Lagos neighbourhoods - Newcomers survival kit -
How do you find your way through the hustle and bustle of a 23-million-inhabitants city? They will make you believe anything about Lagos, from the legendary armed gangs waiting for you at the airport to the billionaires swimming in their champagne, rose pools! Not to mention the hectares of the Makoko floating slums. And what about you? Where do you fit in this picture? Dare Lagos sheds the light on 4 major neighborhoods.
Isolated on the Islands
The first handy tip is for you to distinguish ISLANDS from the MAINLAND. Formerly shaped up from swamps, Lagos forms a string of islands in between the ocean, curving river arms and the inland sea, tied to the Mainland - and the rest of the country - all accessible through four major bridges. Like many southern megacities, Lagos concentrates its wealth on its tiniest core zones - here naturally spotted as the islands - that proudly boast for more than half of Nigeria’s wealth.
Ikeja, an island of its own
Make no mistake on this one: though physically imbricated on the mainland, Ikeja is second to none in terms of cost per square meter in Lagos. While more discreet than on the islands, affluence there is hidden behind vast wooden residences, home to the ancient families of Lagos, prosperous industrials and distinguished politics. To a less watchful eye, some luxury-brand hotels and malls near the airport will make the case for a neighborhood.
The municipality has also played its part, even if the road is an endless work process, some nice flowerbeds and artworks pave the way for your first adventure towards the islands. If Ikeja holds fewer top spots than Ikoyi or Victoria Island, there is real day-to-day life to it, with everything you need in the surroundings.
Ikoyi the green, and quiet
Our next location will take you on the iconic 3rd Mainland Bridge, the 11km and longest bridge in comparison to the other bridges connecting the islands to the Mainland. It offers the Skyline view of the buzzing Lagos through hours of traffic. You will then reach Ikoyi, the first and largest island of all, positioned with Lagos Island at its West and Banana Island at its North-East.
Ikoyi the green is the residential, secure and calm neighborhood of Lagos. Split in two by the Alfred Rewane Road (formerly Kingsway), it separates the island with a more commercial West with a contrasting East that accommodates embassies, institutions, and residential compounds. Circled by a large classy black and white avenue, East-Ikoyi is crumpled by uneven streets, that seem to have lost their paving a long time ago. Residents usually jog and walk through the colorful little plant markets, before the beginning of the rainy season. Some supermarkets, various private hotels, and a few restaurants are beginning to liven up the sleeping beauty, especially along Awolowo Road on Ikoyi-West, before reaching the animated Lagos Island.
Lagos Island
The original capital – used to be the country’s main town, host to all the major banks and institutions, before the capital relocation in Abuja in 1991. Lagos island is known for its narrow streets, always packed with colors, noise, and movements. One can spot some fragments of colonial architecture, today recaptured by more lively and animated neighborhoods than the rest of the islands.
« Not everyone likes bananas! »
The controversial Banana Island. Synonym of the extravaganza of billionaires - even though they tend to prefer Ikoyi - Banana Island offers the many assets of a hyper-secured neighborhood, where residents enjoy the unique experience of space for the outdoor activities: jogging, walking, cycling, children’s playgrounds and basketball or football pitches. Constructed from scratch on the inland sea, the area contains very few convenience stores, except a unique mini-mall. Some schools and offices have appeared in recent years, and the banana shaped-island remains a must for families.
Trendy Victoria Island
The queen of islands, from its very own name to its geography, Victoria Island is isolated by the natural barriers of the Ocean and the lagoon, as well as the artificial one of the Toll Gate to Lekki.
You may identify it as “V.I.”: picture tons of restaurants, bars, clubs, and cafes constantly opening and closing and the frenetic pace of Lagosian whims. Symbol of the oil growth, the neighborhood is the host to many offices, international schools, luxury-brand hotels. ocean-view rooftops and beach bars inspired by Dubai. The island that never sleeps boasts as many malls as quality grocery-store and wine shops. Victoria Island is also the best spot to watch the awakening of Eko Atlantic, the newly constructed island that aims to become the African Dubai.
Lekki, for the hipsters
That’s THE district on the way up. You’ve been told about a new concept, a restaurant with an innovative Chef or the latest buzz-bar? That’s probably in Lekki. The district is made of different phases, numbered from 1 to 4 the further you get from VI. Long looked down by classy Lagosian, “Lekki phase 1” is being reclaimed by the youth and the middle class, where you will find much more affordable places than in VI or Ikoyi. Cinemas, malls, and schools are not left behind and while the area is kept away from the other islands because of two highly congested toll gates, Lekki is worth knowing for who wants to go off the beaten tracks.
JL